pA loose definition of the word improvisation is to invent,
compose, or perform something extemporaneously. For example if
youve ever seen a Woody Allen movie, laughed at a sketch on
Saturday Night Live or heard Miles Davis play notes of music not
bound by this earth, youve experienced improvisation in action. As
it is in movies, sketch comedy or jazz the joy of improvisational
cooking is in the results that spring forth from inspired
creation.ppHow do you use a recipe Do you follow each step and
measure each ingredient with the precision of a chemist Do you
nervously meter out the baking time of your cookies by tapping your
foot to the cadence of the timer We perform this culinary art to
please more than our stomachs, the reasons too numerous to mention.
Whatever the reason we usually approach it with recipe in hand.
Often times a recipe we dont understand. The essence of Improv
Cooking, with its somewhat Zen like approach, demands youre
imagination and instinct to help you solve the riddle of the
recipe.ppThe Steps Towards Improv CookingppImprovisational cooking
is not so much reading and following a recipe as it is using skills
and techniques to take a recipe to another level or create a recipe
out nothing more than a larder full of ingredients. You have to
possess a certain amount of skill and understanding before plunging
in to any kind of cooking. Improv Cooking is no different. It
forces you to trust your instincts as well. Follow these seven
simple steps and youll soon be free to open the fridge and just
start cooking.pp1 Taste As Many Different Styles of Cooking as
PossibleppThis is probably the simplest of all the Improv
techniques to learn and master. Just eat as many different cooking
styles as you can. The axiom is straightforward. The more youre
exposed to, the more imaginative youll become. Fill your headphones
with nothing but Britney and it certainly would be difficult to
imagine Charlie Parkers saxophone. Consequently, eat nothing but
the same restaurant or home cooked food all the time and your
cooking vocabulary will reflect it.pp2 Understand the Basic
Fundamental Techniques of CookingppYou cant pick up a trumpet and
expect to sound like Miles Davis without knowing a few things
first. I wont go into all the things that could and will go wrong.
Im sure you get the picture. Well, Improv Cooking follows the same
rules. You cant expect to be able to whip out a perfect Coq Au Vin
without knowing the techniques involved to do so. But, the rewards
will be greater once you do. The following list is more than just
the basic fundamentals though. Ive listed all the techniques and
methods that matter to the experienced cook.ppThe Oven
GroupppRoasting Cooking with dry heat that surrounds the food with
as much direct heat as possible.ppPan Roasting The wary little
secret of every professional kitchen. This is a combination of
method of starting the food in a hot sauteacute pan then finishing
in a hot oven.ppBroiling A cousin to grilling, this is direct heat
cooking with the heat source above the food instead of under
it.ppBraising Moist heat cooking usually achieved in a sealed
container like a Dutch oven, tagine or stoneware crock.ppBaking A
dry heat method of cooking usually referring to breads, pastries
etc.ppThe Wet GroupppBoiling Cooking in a large quantity of liquid,
usually water.ppSteaming Cooking in a sealed container with a small
amount of liquid usually water but not especially with the food
suspended over the liquid so that it only comes in contact with the
steam vapors.ppPoaching Best known as a method to cook egg, fish
and perhaps chicken. This is cooking in a hot still liquid where
the liquid never reaches more than a bare simmer.ppThe Frying
GroupppSauteacuteing Cooking in a hot pan with little or no fat
butter, oil etc.ppPan Frying Very similar to sauteacuteing, except
done with more fat. Sometimes enough to almost immerse the
food.ppStirFrying The Asian method of cooking in an extremely hot
pan, usually a wok, with very little fat while keeping the food
almost in constant motion.ppDeepFrying Cooking by totally immersing
the food in hot fat. The fat does the job of cooking by encircling
the food with heat, thereby allowing it to cook faster sealing in
natural juices and flavors. If done properly its not the health
demon most people assume it is.ppThe Outdoor GroupppGrilling
Cooking over direct heat with the food usually supported by a grate
of some sort. This method can be performed indoors as well with the
right equipment.ppSmoking This is actually two sub groups. Hot
smoking is cooking at temperatures that will cook the food at the
same time it infuses the food with smoke flavor. Cold smoking is
done with the heat source separate from the cooking chamber so the
food is enveloped in low temperature smoke that will infuse flavor
without cooking.ppRotisserie Like grilling, this method does not
necessarily have to be done outdoors for the lucky few that have
the capability in a wellequipped kitchen. Either way this is
cooking with the food suspended over or next to direct heat and
rotated via by some mechanical means.ppThe Sauce GroupppHeres where
it gets a little dicey and can separate the cooks from the
pretenders. Some of these techniques are best learned at the elbow
of someone whos been there before. But dont let that stop you from
digging in and trying on your own. You may come with some pretty
awful stuff, but the attempt will teach you a lot.ppStock A
cornerstone of cooking, whether, meat, fish, poultry or vegetable.
A low and slow cooking thats meant to draw the true essence of
flavor into a liquid form. brBrown Sauce Usually made with beef or
veal, but can be made with any brown stock made from roasted bones,
flavored with aromatic herbs and vegetables.brDemiGlace Similar to
brown sauce only made without a thickener and reduced to thicken
and intensify flavors.ppWhite Sauce Also known as Beacutechamel,
made with milk and or cream and thickened with a roux flour and
butter pasteppVeloute Constructed very much like white sauce,
except the milk is replaced usually by a light colored stock of
either meat or poultry. It is often enhanced with egg yolks and
butter at finishing.brThe Aise Family This includes Hollandaise and
all its progeny like beacutearnaise, choron etc. and mayonnaise and
all its descendants like aioli, remoulade etc. These are all
emulsion sauces with egg bases and a body made mostly of oil or
butter.ppOther Emulsions This can range from aiolis or butter
sauces to vinaigrettes, to pan sauces that are thickened or
finished last minute with butter and or cream.ppGravy A sauce in
loose terms only. Gravies are usually made with the juices
collected from roasting meats or poultry. The nonthickened
varieties are sometimes called Jus in modern menu vernacular.ppThe
Soup GroupppThe Hearty Family This includes all the varieties you
want to serve in mealsized bowls like beef stew, chicken and
dumplings, chili, chowder and minestrone.ppBisque Usually and
intensely flavored soup thats been thickened with rice, potatoes or
a flour paste called panade.ppPurees Similar to bisque in nature
but usually made with a single vegetable flavoring and thickened by
pureeing the entire mass via some mechanical or manual means. Often
times these soups are finished with cream.ppCreams Any soup, thick
or thin, where a significant portion of the liquid is either milk
or cream. brBroth Often confused with stock, both are liquids that
have been flavored with aromatics. But the basic building block of
stock is bones whereas broth is composed from pieces of meat giving
it more collagen. This is the lip sticking quality that gives broth
its viscous body.ppConsommeacute A broth thats been clarified with
egg whitesppThe Miscellaneous GroupppThis is a hodgepodge of
techniques that will give you a little more depth to your
creativity.brPapillote, Packages and Pouches This is where the food
is wrapped and sealed in paper, foil or sometimes a natural wrapper
like corn husk or banana leaf. The packages can be cooked by
baking, steaming, boiling or grilling.ppDumplings This is a very
broad category of foods and methods that includes many varieties
that Im going to break put into two families. The filled dough
variety and the nothing but dough variety. The filled dough
relatives have names like ravioli, dim sum, kreplach or pierogi.
After filling, these succulent siblings can be steamed, boiled,
baked or fried. The nothing but dough relations generally just go
by the name dumpling but sometimes have the main flavoring
preceding their surname such as apple or onion. Also on this branch
of the tree are hush puppies, zeppoli and matzoth
balls.ppCroquettes Usually a fried delicacy, but sometimes baked. A
soft filling of any manner of meat, cheese, vegetable or fruit
encased in a crisp shell.ppBrining Very popular these days. Besides
turkey at Thanksgiving, its an essential step in the process of
smoking certain foods, like salmon or ham. But will often stand on
its own in foods like gravlax or prosciutto.ppPateacute A French
term to describe a dish made with forcemeat ground of innards or
any kind of meat. But the technique occurs in other cuisine and has
recently been tagged to concoctions of vegetables or fruits as
well. Cold meatloaf is technically a pate.ppCharcuterie Pardon my
French, but they did have a huge influence on the world of cooking.
This term covers all manners of sausage making and preserving of
meats.ppThe Bakers GroupppThis group of techniques is where the art
of cooking meets the science of food. Precision in measurement,
combination of ingredients and technique is of utmost importance.
Discipline and a strict adherence to formula must replace the
looser attitude you can give to other areas of cooking. But, as in
life, there are no absolutes. Once mastered, these techniques will
reveal many ways to tweak and stretch a recipe to your will.ppYeast
Breads These can be savory or sweet, loaves, rolls or doughnuts.
They can be baked, fried or steamed.ppQuick Breads The Quick
generally refers to the active leavening thats achieved with eggs,
baking soda, baking powder, and any combination thereof. These can
be baked in loaves or cups then theyre called muffins. Or steamed
in molds which will change their name to pudding. brPies, Tarts and
Cobblers Be they one crust or two, hand held or deep dish, cream
filled, fruit filled, custard or meat. The basic construction
varies very little.ppCakes and Tortes The basic building blocks of
flour usually wheat but can be any variation, sweetener sugar,
honey whatever and leavening very similar to quick bread rarely
change. The differences all come in the flavoring and final
construction.ppIcings and Frostings etc. Really a sub group of
cakes and tortes, but for this purpose it stands alone. Im
including in this arena fondant, buttercream, ganache, boiled icing
and all the wondrous creations done with pulled
sugar.ppSouffleacutes and Mousse A seemingly daunting hurdle to the
novice, but once the simple construction of flavoring base
lightened with egg whites in the case of souffleacute or whipped
cream for mousse is mastered the sky is the limit.ppCustards
Learning how to manage both breeds, baked and stircooked over heat,
opens opportunities for both sweet and savory variations.ppPuddings
A difficult process to pin down because of the wide range of foods
that can be called puddings.pp3 Learn the Relationships of Aroma,
Flavor, Texture and ColorppThe relationships of aroma, flavor,
texture and color are possibly the most important aspect of improv
cooking. In order for any dish to be cooked well, the dish must be
whole. It must appeal to all the senses completely and with
harmony. Websters Dictionary describes these elements in the
following wayppAroma A pleasant characteristic odorppFlavor the
taste experience when a savory condiment is taken into the
mouthppTexture The distinctive physical composition or structure of
something, especially with respect to the size, shape, and
arrangement of its parts.ppColor That aspect of things that is
caused by differing qualities of the light reflected or emitted by
them.brTo make all of this work in harmony is no small task.
Whether from recipes or youre imaginations its the crux of all
cooking. To neglect or diminish anyone of these elements would
result in a dish thats not complete. And by contrast, to enhance or
over emphasize anyone of these elements as well would result in a
dish that is off balance and probably not very appealing. So how do
you know when you get it right Is there a formula or system of
measuring these elements that can insure all the pieces of the
puzzle are in place No, you just know when it works. Even though
the balance of these elements is crucial, the right answer is up to
you. Let your self go and become the dish or as was first said in
Caddyshack Be the ball! Let your senses tell you whats happening in
that pot or pan. Smell, taste, look and even listen to the food as
it cooks. It has a great story to tell if you let it.pp4 Learn the
Art of AccompanimentppVery few things we cook standalone. Even the
most wellcrafted stew or soup becomes even more complete and
interesting by what it is served with. The gamut of choices can
range from side dishes to condiments to beverages and even to the
choice of lighting or music. In fact there are too many choices to
discuss in detail. The best way to approach this dilemma is to
first understand the goal. Because there are huge differences in
these as well, a simple lunch for two suggests a different set of
choices from a large family gathering or an elegant supper. Throw
this into the mix along with your own level of ability or comfort
with certain techniques and dishes and well I think you get my
point. Perhaps the best way to approach this step towards Improv
Cooking is to begin with what you know, because just as the right
accompaniments can make a meal, the wrong ones can just as easily
destroy it.pp5 Cook With OthersppOne can acquire everything in
solitude except character.brStendhal, On Love, 1822ppUnlike jazz,
comedy or any of the other improvisational arts, where the act of
improv is rarely done alone, you rarely think of cooking as
something that can and should be done with others. Yet there are
the accidental improvisational sessions that happen all the
time.ppWhile developing the skills of Improv cooking, you should
plan several intentional cooking sessions centered on a specific
dish or meal that two or more people can prepare together. Cooking
with someone else can magically open a door to your imagination.pp6
Taste AnalyticallyppI started cooking because I wanted to
understand the magic behind the food I was eating. Tasting smelling
and analyzing ingredients to understand the effects each can have
within a dish is an essential improvisational skill. The more you
do it the easier it becomes to unlock the magic of a dish. This
skill coupled with a solid understanding of technique will enable
you to accomplish great things in the kitchen.pp7 Break the
Rules.ppWithout a sense of exploration, which is the ultimate rule
breaker, we would have never walked on the moon or experienced
Nouvelle Cuisine. The space program produced hundreds of modern
conveniences we enjoy today. Yet many food writers and Chefs look
upon Nouvelle Cuisine with the same disdain as the embarrassingly
wide collars and polyester clothing of the day. Nouvelle Cuisine
left us with a legacy of pushing the envelope. Unlike any other
period in cooking, Chefs were taking the expected and giving us a
whole new way to see it. The foods, techniques and presentations
that seemed far out and strange then have today become not only the
norm for many Chefs, but a jumping off point to even wilder ways to
cook. Breaking the rules is the mantra in many kitchens today.
Savory foams, laser printed edible paper, carnival midway snacks
served in the palaces of high cuisine are just a few of the ways
rules are being broken. If something feels like a rule the next
time youre in the kitchen, then break it. You may create something
inedible, but you will learn a valuable lesson. I cant emphasize
enough that once you combine your increased knowledge of
techniques, flavors and construction your imagination will be free
to see new avenues to explore. Soon the rules will start
disappearing.ppCHICKEN BREASTS IN MUSTARD PAN SAUCE IMPROVppChicken
Breast, boneless and skinlessppUnsalted ButterppKosher SaltppFresh
Ground PepperppVeloute SauceppGood Grainy French MustardppEgg
YolksppLemon JuiceppChives for garnishppButterfly the chicken
breasts or pound them to 12 thick. Season each liberally with salt
and pepper then set aside. Heat the butter in a large skillet over
medium high heat until it foams and begins to brown. Add the just
enough chicken to the pan so its not too crowded. Brown the breasts
on one side then turn and cook for about 45 minutes. Remove the pan
from the heat and lift the chicken breasts to a warm platter.
Repeat the process again if you need to cook more chicken. If not,
return the pan to the heat and add the veloute sauce. Stir in the
mustard and reduce the heat to low. Scrape the pan to lift all the
little bits of browned chicken stuck to the pan. Beat the egg yolks
in a small bowl. Add a little of the warm sauce to the yolks to
warm them then stir the mix into the warm sauce. Return the pan to
the heat, but do not let the sauce boil. Finally, stir in the lemon
juice and adjust the seasoning if needed. brReturn the chicken and
any accumulated juices to the sauce and warm briefly. Serve the
chicken topped with a little sauce and garnished with some snipped
chives.brImprov Hint The veloute sauce in this case should be a
little on the thin side. The simmering in the pan, the mustard and
the egg yolks will have an affect on making it a little thicker.
Plan on about onethird cup of sauce per chicken breast.ppTobie
began his career as part of a restaurant and tavern family in
Chicago. As a student of liberal arts at Kendall College he
discovered his calling in the restaurant industry. Leaving school
before graduation, he accepted an apprenticeship under Chef John
Snowden at Dumas Pere L146Ecole de la Cuisine Francais. The classic
French apprenticeship prepared him for a career as Chef and
consultant. Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises146 reopening of the
legendary Pump Room in 1977 was his first project. Since then, he
has used his creative talents working with restaurants all over the
country. He currently resides in Minneapolis working with an active
list of consulting projects including, The Sample Room, a
renovation of an old bar to a modern eatery Ike146s Bar and Grill,
classic dining in downtown Minneapolis, Monkey Dish Bar and Grill
an outrageous fun concept in suburban Chicago among others. His
articles have appeared in various local publications and he makes
regular appearances on radio and TV. He is working on a book called
147IMPROV COOKING148.p
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