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Feed: How to Grow Great Potatoes - AggScore: 39.2



Summary: How to Grow Great Potatoes


Grow Great Potatoes in Your Own Backyard

21st Century Infectious Potato Disease


A really nasty seed-borne bacterial blackleg disease, Dickeya solani is causing concern to potato farmers.alt

First identified in Holland in 2005, Dickeya solani is an aggressive form of another type of blackleg disease, Dickeya dianthicola that has established itself in several countries in Europe, including Spain, France and Belgium, as well as in Finland and Poland. It has also spread to the United Kingdom (specifically England and Wales) and other parts of the world.

Prior to this, as early as 1970, the less aggressive form of blackleg, Dickeya dianthicola had been reported in Holland and was already causing concern.

A Threat to Farmers

Dickeya solani causes tubers to rot and the growing plants to wilt, which is exactly what the traditional blackleg diseases do. But the damage this one causes is much worse, and it happens in a far wider range of conditions, with less bacteria present.

Farmers worldwide are warned to use only high quality seed crops since the original scourge is said to have been largely the result of the downgrading of seed crops and exportation of affected seed.

Scotland has taken a particularly hard line since the disease has never been found in potatoes of Scottish origin.

In 2009 the bacterial disease was found on a Scottish farm. According to widely published news reports, immediate action was taken by the authorities who insisted that all seed stock from potato production on that particular farm was removed and destroyed, and all machinery and equipment thoroughly cleaned.

What Researchers Say

According to Jan van der Wolf and four of his Dutch colleagues, climate change is partly responsible for the “new” blackleg diseases.

They stated in research papers published in New and old pathogens of potato in changing climatein 2007, that there were as many as six new species of Dickeya, and that they were most virulent in warm climates. Another problem they identified is that water can spread the disease through the soil where rotten tubers are present, contaminating plants that were not previously affected.

Jaana Laurila and five colleagues from Finland reported in same series of papers, that some highly virulent Dickeya strains may be present in rivers and there “is a risk that they will spread into potato stocks if contaminated river water is used for irrigation of seed potato fields”.

How to Prevent This Disease from Spreading

According to the UK’s Potato Council head of seed and export, Mr Robert Burns, the rest of the world can learn from the Scottish lesson. As Dickeya solani wreaked havoc in other parts of the Britain during the first decade of this century, legislation was introduced to Scotland to force farmers to use potato seed produced in Scotland.

Wales and England, on the other hand, still import about 10% of their seed from Europe – and there is no quarantine status requiring the seed to be free from Dickeya solani.

“The best way to prevent the introduction of these non-indigenous pests is by doing all we can to stop them entering the country in the first place,” said Burns just weeks before the 2012 World Potato Congress to be held in Edinburgh.

 

Date Published: May 15, 2012 - 5:23 pm



Storing Processed Potatoes


 

altGrowing potatoes can be incredibly rewarding, particularly if you have the space to plant a fair number of them. Better still, if you get a particularly good crop, you can process some of them and store them for times when there aren’t any fresh tubers to harvest from your garden.

The Best Ways to Process Your Spuds

When you “process” potatoes, all you are really doing is semi-preparing them for cooking. So you can peel them, halve them peeled or unpeeled, quarter or slice them, peel and dice them, or you can even cut them ready for frying as chips.
If you don’t process your spuds, you can also cook them and freeze them (for example in the form of mash), but the processing option is a lot more versatile.
While it’s wonderful to have a ready supply of fresh veg from the garden, potatoes will start to go soft if they are left for too long. Then they will eventually start to rot.

How to Store Your Processed Potatoes

While freshly harvested spuds can be stored in any cool, ventilated pantry, cupboard or drawer, as soon as they have been processed, you need to refrigerate or freeze them. While frozen veggies will obviously last a lot longer (for at least a year), this isn’t always the best option. For example chips freeze very well, but baby potatoes lose texture and flavour, even though the freezing process preserves them. If you are going to use them in a stew or casserole, that’s fine, but it doesn’t work for those that are intended for a salad.
Any processed spuds kept in the refrigerator should be packed in polythene bags and stored in the vegetable tray that isn’t a cold as the open shelves.

Tips for Freezing Processed Potatoes

1.     Chips. Peel, slice and then blanch in hot oil for a couple of minutes. Remove them from the oil and let them drain, and then cool. Package in polyurethane bags and remove all air before sealing (a good way is to suck the air out through a straw).
2.     Baby potatoes. Blanch in boiling water for about three minutes. Plunge into cold water and then allow them to cool before packaging them as above.
3.     Diced potatoes. Peel, dice and blanch in boiling water for a couple of minutes. You don’t want them to go soft. Follow the same cold-water plunge, cooling and packaging process.
4.     Label all your bags with the process used to prepare the spuds as well as the date. It’s also a good idea to include the unfrozen weight of your spuds because once they are frozen they will weigh more. If you generally use a specific quantity of say diced veg in stews, package according to this quantity for convenience.
Freezing and De-thawing
It usually makes sense to load your freezer progressively for energy efficiency reasons, but it depends on quantity. Small amounts don’t really make much difference; but if you’ve got more than about half a dozen bags, consider keeping half of them in the fridge overnight.
The best way to thaw frozen potatoes is in the refrigerator, or at room temperature if the weather is cool. 
Date Published: Apr 22, 2012 - 6:12 am



Wild Potatoes are being used to Develop Commercial Potatoes that will Resist Disease


With potatoes being the number one veggie crop in the USA, it's not surprising that the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) has dedicated a lot of time and money to doing all it can to develop potatoes that will resist the typical diseases that attack potatoes.
 
It's not just the damage from potato diseases that costs the US economy a lot of money, it is also post-harvest losses that the USDA maintains are as high as 30%. And if it happens there, chances are the international potato industry is suffering similar losses as well.

What Geneticists are Doing

In Madison, Wisconsin in the USA, there are geneticists employed by the USDA's Agricultural Research Service (ARS) who have been searching for wild potatoes that are naturally resistant to certain deadly diseases that constantly plague potatoes – including blight. And they are finding them too.

Diseases Geneticists are Fighting

One major problem-disease the scientists have been looking to find a solution for is Verticillium wilt, which is a fungal disease. It's a tricky one, because it can remain active in the soil for as long as a decade and will strike when farmers least expect it to.

alt

American geneticists Dennis Halterman and Shelley Jansky from the ARS Vegetable Crops Research Unit with some of the plants they are working with. Photograph credit: USDA.
They have found a wild potato – Solanum chacoense – which appears to be resistant to Verticillium wilt, and they believe that the resistant gene is durable enough to hold up long-term in the commercial potatoes they have bred.
 
They have also identified at least one wild potato – Solanum verrucosum – that is highly resistant to late blight, and another that is resistant to early blight; and they have crossed these with one another. Now they are trying to cross this resultant "wild" potato with a cultivated potato in an endeavour to integrate the gene that will make the "new" potato resistant to both early and late blight.
 
Early blight, which also affects tomatoes, is a fungal problem that affects the leaves and stems of the plant. Ultimately it can drastically reduce the yield of both potatoes and tomatoes.
 
Late blight is also fungal. It is spread by wind and rain – and sometimes over very long distances. It's a bad one because it survives on infected tubers making it easy for proliferation.  
 
They are also working to find a wild potato that will resist common scab, a horribly common disease that is spread through the soil by bacteria that attack the tubers. While you can eat potatoes that are affected by scab, it's ugly and not acceptable commercially.
 
Chances are they'll do it too!
 
Knowing that there are disease-free possibilities, make sure you see if any of these are available before you buy your next potato seed.
Date Published: Mar 11, 2012 - 10:19 am


Development of Disease- and Pest-Resistant Potatoes


All living organisms are prone to certain diseases, not least of which is the humble potato which, by the way, is the fourth largest crop in the world after wheat, rice and corn! In fact the potato is prone to so many different diseases, and is attacked by so many lethal pests, that horticulturists have made it their business to develop many varieties of disease-resistant potato.
alt
Defender, a blight-resistant variety of potato, thrives in a bed where all the other varieties have been killed by late blight. Photograph credit: USDA.

Potatoes have been attacked by various pests and diseases for centuries. The most infamous disease is probably late blight, a fungal condition which is said to have caused the great Irish Potato Famine in 1845. There are a myriad of others, some also fungal, but many others that are either viral or bacterial.

Similarly there are a host of pests that can kill crops, including the Columbia root-knot nematode, which, according to the United States Department of Agriculture's (USDA) Agricultural Research Service, costs US potato growers (many of which are family farms) as much as US$20-million every year. And as the USDA is quick to point out, potatoes are the number one veggie crop in America, with consumers devouring as much as 130 lbs or 60 kg per person annually.  
The Shift from Chemical Control to Disease-resistant Varieties
For more than a century, fungicides and fumigants have been the first line of defense for farmers striving to rid their potato crops of disease and pests. But like most chemical pesticides and other formulas, resistance has built up over the decades. In addition to this, there are growing concerns worldwide about the effect harmful pesticides have on the environment and our Planet as a whole.
This, says the USDA, has "prompted the search for sustainable solutions in the form of genetic resistance."
Not only are their researchers developing potato varieties that will resist pests and diseases, they are also concentrating on generally improving the nutrient content of these potatoes.
The First Potato Resistant to Late Blight
In 2006, the USDA released the first potato cultivar that was resistant to late blight. Called Defender, it has enabled potato farmers to markedly reduce their use of fungicides and other chemicals they were previously forced to use in an endeavour to control late blight.
The USDA has also announced that it hopes to release at least one more blight-resistant potato variety in the next couple of years. They also hope to come up with potato varieties that are resistant to common scab and to the virus Y, amongst other things.
Many countries have standards for disease-free and disease-resistant potatoes, so before you invest in new potato "seeds", investigate whether any disease-resistant types are available in your part of the world.
Date Published: Feb 20, 2012 - 3:54 am


A Tater Story


And now for a bit of light hearted fun!

A Girl Potato and  Boy Potato had eyes for each other,and finally they got married, and  had a little sweet potato, which they called 'Yam'.

Of course,  they wanted the best for Yam.

When it was time, they told her  about the facts of life. They warned her about going out  and getting half-baked, so she  wouldn't get accidentally mashed, and get a bad name for herself like 'Hot  Potato'.

Yam said not to worry, no Spud would get  her  into the sack  and make a rotten potato out of  her!

But on the other hand she wouldn't stay home and become  a Couch Potato either.couch-potato

She would eat properly so as  not  to be skinny like her Shoestring Cousins.

When she went off to Europe, Mr.  And Mrs. Potato told Yam to watch out for those hard-boiled guys from Ireland and the greasy guys from France called the French  Fries. 

And when she went out West,  she must watch out  for the Indians so she  wouldn't get scalloped.

They sent Yam to Idaho P.U. (that's  Potato University ). So that when she graduated  she'd really be "in the Chips".

But in spite of all they did  for her, one-day Yam came home and announced she was going to marry  Richie Benaud.

"Richie Benaud!!", they  cried. They were very upset and told Yam "You  can't  possibly marry Richie Benaud because  he's just …..

Are you ready for this? Are  you sure? * OK! You asked for it: Here  it is! * *

… just a  COMMONTATER!"

(For non-cricket followers…. Richie Benaud is a former Australian cricketer who, since his retirement from international cricket in 1964, has become a highly regarded commentator on the game.)

Date Published: Feb 04, 2012 - 7:16 pm


Why You Should Grow Disease Resistant Potatoes


altThe great Irish famine of the mid-19th century shows us how vulnerable potatoes can be when it comes to disease. Potato blight, caused by a rampant fungus caused a massive crop failure throughout Ireland, leading to famine and starvation.
Many of those who survived the famine decided to emigrate to far-off lands like North America and Australia, leading to a drop in the Irish population of some 50%.

Hybrid Potatoes can Resist Disease

Of course it was the common so-called Irish potato that was affected by the terrible blight. So it is not surprising that horticulturists decided to do what they could to try and "improve" the common potato.
Luther Burbank, an American horticulturist, is credited with having developed the first disease resistant hybrid potato. He called it the Russet Burbank potato and then, after selling the rights to it, went off to Santa Rosa with the proceeds. It was there that he established what is now a world-famous experimental farm.
Since then many different varieties of disease resistant potato have been bred (and I'll talk about these in another post). Furthermore, most countries have standards that certify potatoes that are disease-free. If possible these are the seed tubers that you should plant.

Diseases Potatoes are Prone to

Unfortunately potatoes are prone to many diseases, including various leaf diseases. Insects often transmit viral diseases, but bacteria and fungi are also problems. These are just some examples:
·         Potato scab, which affects the appearance of the underground tubers, is a very common fungal disease that affects potatoes. You can avoid it by ensuring the pH of your soil is between 5.2 and 5.5 and by keeping the soil relatively dry and always well-drained.
·         Black dot is a fungal disease that causes wilt and rotting. It is encouraged by poor soil and bad drainage.
·         Black scurf is another fungal disease, attacking underground. Good management should help you avoid this; unfortunately there are no varieties that are specifically resistant to it. Silver scurf is another type, but this usually occurs during storage.
·         Early blight is also caused by a fungus. You can identify it by little dark spots that form on the leaves, which then turn yellow and dry, and then fall off. It is a major problem which is exacerbated by overhead irrigation.
·         Late blight is another fungal disease, and is spread by wind and rain – and is worsened by overhead irrigation.
·         Mould can be quite a bad problem, again because of moist condition and overhead watering.
·         While wilts may be caused by a fungal disease, sometimes it is caused by bacteria. Either way it's bad news. Healthy plants shouldn't be attacked by wilts (of which there are several types), but using disease-free stock is your best protection.
·         Blackleg disease is a rather horrid bacterial disease and one that may attack early on in the growing season. Again planting disease-free seed will usually avoid the problem.

How to Avoid Diseases from Infecting Your Potato Crop

Happily there are steps that you can take to avoid these problems in your potato patch. For instance weeds can be a source of disease, so these should be diligently removed. Aphids also carry diseases, so keep an eye out for these and use an organic spray if you spot them (spray in the evening when the good bugs aren't usually around).
Crop rotation is an excellent way to prevent infections and diseases from one season being passed on to the next. Just remember that you should plant something that belongs to another family, because plants in the same family – brinjals, tomatoes, peppers, and so on – suffer from the same problems.
Feeding the soil with organic compost or manure is another safeguard, because good quality soil encourages good bugs.
Planting cover crops like wheat or barley is another safeguard, although this is only really an option if you are able to plant a field of potatoes. Alternatively you could plant one of the brassica species that grows through winter; mustard, cabbages, and canola are all brassicas that will help to minimise disease and control pests in your potato patch.
While mulching is always good, when it comes to potatoes, make sure you don't mulch right against the plant as this may cause the stem to rot or even affect the leaves of the potato. 
Too much nitrogen in the soil is also a disease risk.
Overhead sprinklers tend to exacerbate problems, so if you are able to, rather install a drip system or soaker hoses. If you're watering with sprinklers, do so early in the day because wet leaves seem to invite disease at night; water splashing on the leaves also helps to transmit diseases. 
If your potato plants look as if they are wilting, but the weather is cool, check for disease.
 



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Date Published: Jan 13, 2012 - 5:09 am


How to Harvest your Home-grown Potatoes


altA successful potato crop will keep you stocked up with freshly grown potatoes for as long as eight weeks, from the time the plant flowers.
The first potatoes you can harvest will be little, baby potatoes – normally referred to as "new potatoes". This could be as early as six weeks after planting; be guided by the flowers which should be fully open. A mature crop though will only be ready 12 to 14 weeks after planting, depending on the variety.

Harvesting New Potatoes

The harvesting process for young, new potatoes is not the same as for mature tubers. The reason for this is because you don't want to damage the remaining tubers when you dig out baby potatoes.
If you dig carefully under your potato plants, you will be able to feel the tubers and judge their size, bearing in mind the usual size that new potatoes are when harvested commercially. Then all you do is to carefully "pick" a few from underground. Take a few from each plant, and from different sides of the plant.
The skin of new potatoes is very thin, and you won't have to peel them before cooking them. By the same token you can't store them for very long (it's the hardened – or cured – skins that extend their "shelf" life), so eat them immediately, or at least within days of harvesting.

Harvesting the Rest of your Potato Crop

There are no absolutes in terms of the size potatoes should be when harvested; some varieties do have the potential to grow bigger than others, without starting to deteriorate (for instance those that have been produced or bred for baking).
While you can dig out mature potatoes by hand, this is a tedious process and it is easier to lift them with a four-pronged garden fork (spades and hoes are more likely to damage the tubers).
To lift complete plants with a fork make sure you push it into the ground away from the tubers (check with your hand until you are able to judge from experience). Then lever the plant out of the ground. Gently shake the soil off the tubers.
Sometimes potatoes get left behind in the ground, so when you've completed the harvest, fork-over each row and retrieve the stragglers.

How to Make your Potatoes Last

If you are planning to store your potatoes for any length of time, before you harvest them you should "cure" them. All this involves is a simple process that thickens the skin and closes the minute openings on the potato skin. Correctly done, you will be able to store your potatoes successfully for months.
Once you have established that the potatoes are ready for harvesting, give them a good, thorough last watering. A couple of days later cut the plants down to ground level and remove.  They will be ready to harvest a week to ten days after this has been done.
You can leave mature tubers in the ground for longer than this, but you must be sure that they are totally covered with soil and they must not be watered again. If it rains, lift the crop immediately. 
Date Published: Dec 03, 2011 - 2:08 am


How Potatoes Grow, Step-by-Step


altIf you have never grown potatoes before, it is a good idea to familiarise yourself with the growing process of tubers, so that you can take appropriate and progressive action to ensure a successful crop.
 
While stems, leaves and flowers do form above the ground, it is the expanding section of the plant – the tuber – under the ground that forms the crop.
 
Once you have planted your "seed" tubers, there are five main stages to watch for:
  • the green sprouts that emerge from the eyes of the seed potatoes,
  • the stalks and lush green leaves that form,
  • flowers (and tubers),
  • healthy plants,
  • the plants start to turn yellow and lose their leaves.
The Buds Sprout
You may be able to buy seed potatoes from a wholesale stockist in your area, alternatively, you are going to have to produce your own seed potatoes from good quality potatoes bought at your local vegetable shop or supermarket. Do not be tempted to try and grow anything that you might be put off from eating; for example tubers with nematodes or skin blemishes, however minor.
 
If you choose the latter route, a good way to encourage them to sprout is to lay them out in trays until they shoot. In the UK they call this "greening", and it is considered to be an excellent way to encourage the development of really strong shoots. Note that the shoots you want to encourage are those at the broad end of oval cultivars, and the sunken eyes on round cultivars. Rub off any other sprouts. You can plant them as the shoots develop, ensuring that the sprouts face upwards, out of the soil.
 
If you plant the seed tubers directly in the ground, you will eventually see the sprouts emerging from the soil. Well sprouted tubers should push through after about two weeks. It is at this point that the plant will begin to develop roots that will push down into the soil under the tuber.
 
If you have planted in autumn or fall (bearing in mind that spring and autumn are the best times to plant), if there is a sudden cold spell, throw grass cuttings over the plants to give them some warmth and protection.alt
 
Stalks and Leaves
Once the first buds have sprouted, the plants will start to form stalks and leaves above the soil. You can be sure that the roots will also be developing underground. The new potatoes will later start to form on these "underground stems" and rhizomes.  
 
As the greenery develops, and the plants grown, you should start to "hill up" the potatoes, by drawing a little loose soil up over the shoots – but without covering them. By the time the flowers appear, you should have created a rather substantial ridge.
 
During this period of growth, you need to water regularly, but try not to wet the foliage too often. A drip or furrow method of irrigation is preferred. You also need to vigilant about weeds, removing them so that they don't compete for nutrients or water. Just don't use any sharp tools, because if you damage the underground tubers, this could lead to infection by fungi, or to disease. If you spot any cracks or gaps in the soil, fill these to reduce the possibility of tuber-moths attacking the potatoes. This will also prevent unwanted "greening" underground.  
 
These two stages will take anything from a month to 70 days, depending on specific conditions.
 
altFlowers and Tubers Develop
Even though different potato cultivars vary in terms of their capacity to flower, it is during the flowering stage that the tubers begin to form at the ends of the rhizomes that have developed underground. It is a very stressful stage for the plant, and regular irrigation is vital.  
 
The Tubers Bulk Out
Though you obviously can't see what is happening underground, the fourth stage in the potato's growth is when the tuber gets bigger and accumulates starch.
 
It is at this point that you can harvest "new potatoes", by carefully digging under the tubers, and removing some of the small, newly developed potatoes at the base of the plant.
 
This phase can last as long as three months, however home gardeners often harvest small quantities of potatoes throughout this period of time.
 
altThe Plant Matures
You will notice that the leaves begin to turn yellow and start to drop off the plants. Gradually reduce the quantity of water, so that the tuber skins can "set" or harden.
 
If the weather is dry you can leave the tubers in the soil for a while. But if it is wet, or there is even a chance of rainy weather, lift them so that they don't absorb the moisture and possibly develop deformities.
Date Published: Nov 08, 2011 - 5:17 am


Growing and Cooking the Best Mashed Potatoes


Potatoes are a staple and potentially delicious food, although a large number of people are surprisingly unimaginative and uninventive when it comes to cooking processes.
 
Mashed potato is a perfect example of a dish that may be totally mundane, or marvellously cordon bleu!
 
At its most mundane, mashed potato is made by boiling the tuber and then adding a knob of butter or yellow margarine, plus salt and pepper to taste. Many people also add a bit of milk or cream before mashing. There's nothing to it really, except that if you don't mash it thoroughly, and season it tastefully, you're going to end up with tasteless, lumpy mush.
 

Top Tips for the Best Mash

There are several very simple tips that will help you to make a tasty, super-smooth, delicious mashed potato dish.
  • Choose a potato that has been bred for mashing.
  • Place the potatoes in cold salted water before bringing the water to the boil. NEVER place them in water that is already boiling.
  • Consider what you are going to add to the mash to improve or simply add flavour.
  •  Mash the cooked potatoes with a fork or masher – don't use a liquidiser otherwise it will become gummy.

Different Uses for Different Potatoes

It is remarkable how many different varieties of potato there are. Not only has the common potato been bred in numerous colours, shapes and sizes, varieties have also been developed for different uses – including mashing.
 
Generally the colour of a potato will indicate the type and colour flesh you can expect to find. For instance white (so-called Irish) potatoes have either white or yellow flesh and can be used for most potato dishes. Red-skinned potatoes have flesh that varies from white or yellow to red or pink, and it may be starchy or waxy. Russet potatoes on the other hand generally have brown skins, and the flesh is starchy.
 
If you are going to bake potatoes you should aim for a tuber that will not only mature to a decent size, but its skin should be coarse and the flesh firm and high in starch. The same type of potatoes may also be used for frying and for mashing.
 
Potatoes for boiling should be waxy rather than starchy, and they should have a high sugar content. These work well in casseroles and potato salad, but don't fry or roast very successfully.
 
Ideal potatoes for frying and roasting will be floury. When cooked they will break apart if they have been boiled or put into casseroles, but they are generally delicious when baked, fried or roasted.
 

Cooking the Best Mash

Clearly there is no one potato or one single recipe that will produce the best mashed potato ever.
But here is a dish that we absolutely love. It uses a Dutch-bred variety called Lady Rosetta which has a red skin and dark yellow floury flesh. This potato variety (if you can find it where you live) is a tasty option for baking as well as frying crisps, and also results in a delicious mash.
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Lady Rosetta was nominated as one of the tastiest potatoes in Europe not that long ago.

You will need about eight nice-sized potatoes (be guided by the picture), a head of garlic, about two tablespoons of butter, milk, salt and coarsely crushed black pepper.
 
Peel and boil the potatoes while you roast the garlic (drizzled with a little virgin olive oil) in an oven preheated to 350 °F/180 °C for about 40 minutes until soft. Drain the potatoes and squeeze the garlic out of its skin into the potato. Add the milk, butter, salt and pepper and mash until smooth.
 
If you like the flavour of Parmesan or Pecorina cheese, stir in about a quarter cup of grated cheese before serving. ENJOY!
Date Published: Oct 03, 2011 - 4:22 am


Grow Different Coloured Potatoes


Many people think of potatoes as being dull-looking, brown-skinned vegetables that you can bake, boil or fry. But not only are there numerous ways to cook the common potato, there are also a multitude of different types of potato – more than 5,000 varieties in all. Perhaps even more surprisingly, potatoes come in a myriad of different colours, from white to blue and dark purple.
 
This shows that the common potato is no longer as "common" as it used to be! Unfortunately though, only a small number of varieties make their way to any of the world's supermarket shelves. While you're likely to find a bigger range at specialist veggie stores, or at farmers' markets, why not grow some of the more unusual type of potatoes at home?
 
 
alt

Tasty Lady Rosetta potatoes contrast with the
more regular Maris Peer
variety

 
Here is just a tiny taste of some of the world's varieties:
 

White Potatoes

White potatoes are also called Irish potatoes, and they are probably the best known in the world. Confusingly, though, most so-called "white" potatoes have brown or a light beige coloured skin. Some recently developed varieties confuse the category further because their flesh is a creamy colour or even yellow!
 
Coliban, developed in the United Kingdom, has off-white skin and white flesh. Yukon Gold, developed in the US, is a popular potato with yellow flesh. Maris Peer is a popular British potato variety that is frequently used as a pre-pack, and picked when small for new or baby potatoes. The skin of this variety is a very light golden or creamy brown and the flesh is white or just off-white.
 

 

Russet Potatoes

Tubers in this colour category have brown skins, and the flesh is distinctively starchy. They have a good reputation for successful roasting.
 
Russet Burbank, also an established American variety (it's been available since 1908), has brown skin and white flesh.
 

Blue and Purple Potatoes

Not quite the norm, blue and purple potatoes are favoured not just for their unusual colour, but also because they contain a high percentage of antioxidants, an excellent health benefit. While they are classified by the colour of their skin, the flesh tends to be tinged with colour as well.

Royal Blue has an attractive deep-blue skin with flesh that is a creamy yellow colour. By contrast, All Blue, which has a similar colour skin, has unusual "blue" flesh. Odem is an Israeli variety with a bright purple skin and yellow flesh. Purple Peruvian, an heirloom variety that originated in the Andes is about as purple as you will ever get – and both the skin and flesh are coloured. It is considered to be a gourmet potato.
 

Red Potatoes

Like the blue and purple varieties, red ones also contain additional nutrients and are packed full of antioxidants. The flesh of red potatoes is sometimes white, although some varieties boast a golden-yellow or even reddish flesh. A tuber that is described as "red gold" will be red-skinned with a golden-hued flesh.
 
An Australian variety developed in the 1970s, Tasman is a reddish-pink tuber with white flesh. All Red, also known as Cranberry Red, has red skin and pink flesh. Roseval, from Europe, has bright pinkish-red skin and yellow flesh that has a pink tinge close to the skin. It is also a gourmet type. Lady Rosetta, a Dutch-bred variety, has red skin and yellow-hued flesh. It was recently nominated as one of Europe's tastiest potatoes.
 
There's so much to choose from, why not seek out some colourful varieties available in your part of the world, and be the envy of your friends?
 

 

Date Published: Sep 14, 2011 - 5:32 pm


 
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