[caption id="" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Image via
Wikipedia"] [1][/caption] Fleas and ticks are the two most common
pests that aggravate your dog. Tick and flea treatment for dogs is
vital to maintaining their health and your sanity. Ticks are more
of a problem for the dog than they are for the owner. Ticks carry
some diseases, like lymes disease [2] and Rocky Mountain Spotted
fever, but an infestation of ticks can drain your dogs energy even
if they don't carry infections. This is due to the loss of the
blood that the ticks consume. Over time, the stress on the dogs
system can make him prone to other illnesses, simply because the
immune system is suppressed. If your dog spends any time romping
around in bushes, you need to check him for ticks. People often
assume that, because they don't take their dogs into forested
areas, they don't have to worry about ticks. The unfortunate truth
is that bushes in the backyard or the park can also conceal ticks,
so don't presume that your dog is safe because you never go to the
country. The best time to check for ticks is a day or two after
possible exposure. When they aren't feeding ticks are very small
and almost impossible to see, so its unlikely that you'll find them
right away. Once they've been in place for a couple of days,
though, they are really easy to see. They look like hanging warts
or skin tags more than anything else. At that point they are
nothing much more than sacks of blood with their head buried under
your dog's skin. That head is the problem. If you don't take
precautions the head can be left behind to cause infection when the
tick is removed. When I was a kid, ticks were removed by touching
them on the ass with a lighted cigarette. As smoking went out of
fashion, people started to use olive oil or vaseline to make the
ticks back out. Things have changed again, so here's the currently
recommended way of dealing with ticks. Use blunt curved tweezers or
a thread. Grasp the tick as close to the skin surface as possible
and pull upward with a steady, even pressure. Do not twist or jerk
the tick because this may cause the mouth parts to detach and
remain in the skin. You should pull firmly enough to lift up the
skin. Hold this tension for 3 to 4 minutes and the tick will back
out. DO NOT squeeze, crush, or puncture the body of the tick
because its fluids may contain bacteria. Immediately dispose of the
tick. If you have any concerns, put the tick in a plastic bag and
freeze it. If you get sick you can take the dead tick with you when
you see your provider. Immediately wash your hands and the affected
area with soap and water. This list is from How to Remove a Tick
[3]. While ticks are mainly uncomfortable for dogs, fleas are just
as aggravating to people. I've lived in a couple of houses that had
flea infestations and it wasn't a pleasant experience. Fleas are
supposed to be species specific, but I can tell you that dog fleas
will happily chow down on people too. Just knowing the fleas are
there can lead to a bad case of phantom itches. Just thinking about
it now is making me scratch. For some reason, fleas gravitate more
toward women than men, and my girlfriend got to the point where she
wouldn't come near my house until the flea problem was dealt with.
The best way to deal with fleas is by prevention. Use some kind of
one drop flea treatment like Advantage. There are cheaper brands on
the market, but we've found that they don't do the job as well as
Advantage does. Once that stuff is on your dog, the fleas are
history. The only drawback that I know of is that some animals are
sensitive to the chemicals and can become ill. So, watch carefully
to see what happens to your dog if you are using it for the first
time. Did you know that you can still get a flea infestation in
your house even if your dog is flea free? During high flea season,
fleas actually do a sort of migration and they can find their way
into your house through open doors or cracks under the door. This
sometimes happens to people who have no animals of their own and
causes great consternation. To understand ways of dealing with
fleas you have to understand their life cycle. They don't actually
live on the host. They jump on, bite, hang out and pick their
teeth, and then jump off again. The lay their eggs in carpets and
cracks in the flooring. When the eggs hatch the young fleas survive
by eating the feces of the adults. When they're all grown up they
start bouncing around looking for a blood meal. What all that
means, is that simply killing the adult fleas doesn't really solve
the problems, 'cos there are a bunch of eggs about to hatch to
start the cycle again. If you have a really bad flea problem in
your house the only way to knock it down is by using a fogger, or
flea bomb. We can't buy them in Canada, so people usually head
south to pick them up. Be sure to follow all the instructions.
These things are dangerous. That's why they are restricted to
professional exterminators in Canada. Once you've knocked down the
adult fleas its time to deal with the eggs and larvae. The biggest
hot-spot where fleas lurk is in your carpets. Give them a good
steam cleaning. After they've dried you have to hose them down with
a good flea spray. I'm not going to recommend any particular brand.
The one we use is called Infelsekt, and last time we bought it it
cost dollarsignr75 for the can. The main thing to be sure of, no
matter which brand you choose, is that it states clearly on the can
that it kills eggs and larvae for up to six months. You have to be
sure of that so that you don't get a re-occurence of the
infestation a month after you knock the current one down. That's
what we've learned about tick and flea treatment for dogs.
Especially where fleas are concerned, you have to be willing to
spend the money you need to, then establish a set of routines for
cleaning and de-fleaing your house on a regular basis in order to
protect yourself and your pets. [4] Related posts:Best Heartworm
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http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:HookeFlea01.jpg [2]
http://www.westieterrierblog.com/dog-health/lymes-disease-in-dogs-symptoms/
[3] http://dermatology.about.com/cs/miscellaneous/a/tick.htm [4]
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