I finally got a new how-to Regimen video filmed showing me using
the new Acne.org Moisturizer with licochalcone. Feel
free to take a look and please, don’t be intimidated by my high
level editing skillz.
Heh. Not!
Update: A few
of you have been asking for an SPF update. I’m working on getting
it feeling just right with ingredients that are uncompromisingly
high quality yet within financial reach. The bottom line is that
it will come out when all of this comes together but I can’t
guarantee when that will be. It may take some time since SPF is
quite a tricky brew. I know it’s been a very long time, and it
may still be longer. I can promise you one thing–that I am
working on it and will let you know the minute it’s done.
In the meantime: A couple of options:
1. Olay Complete All Day UV Moisturizer with a 5-6 drops of jojoba oil added.
2. If that doesn’t work well enough to take care of flakiness, you can mix equal parts Olay Complete All Day UV Moisturizer with Acne.org Moisturizer, and then add 5-6 drops of jojoba oil.
3. Another option is Philosophy Hope In A Jar SPF30. I love this stuff but it is zinc based like so it is a flake promoter, much like the Olay. Since I use benzoyl peroxide and need something to combat flakes, I often mix equal parts Philosophy Hope In A Jar SPF30 with Acne.org Moisturizer plus 5-6 drops of jojoba oil. This gives me an SPF of around 15 and keeps me pretty good on flakes. The only downside is that the Philosophy SPF is very expensive (around $35 for 2 ounces). But since I mix it with Acne.org Moisturizer it goes twice as far.
Spot treatment: Someone asked about the spot treatment as well. This project is on the back burner at this point. In the meantime, the AHA+ works so well for spot treating that it is definitely a suitable alternative.
After decades of sparse
research, the scientific community is finally sinking its teeth
into the subject of diet and acne. Even though nobody knows
exactly how diet and acne are related, we’re starting to get some
data. To get yourself up to date on all the latest information,
visit the new Diet and Acne page here at acne.org.
I also added a Nutrition/Holistic Health section to the reviews pages where you can review various diets. Please add your reviews!
One of the topics I
came across in my recent research was chemical peels. I realized
Acne.org was missing a chemical
peels page so I went ahead and made one. Have a read to get
the full story. Here’s a quick bottom line:
Based on six recent articles printed in respected medical journals regarding chemical peels and acne, the concensus is that chemical peels seem to help reduce acne more than placebo, but not by much. They can be a fun adjunct to acne therapy, but probably should not be relied upon to produce significant clearing.
Note: I will still be on acne.org doing videos along with everyone.
Leave your comments below por favor.
Isotretinoin
(Accutane) is approved to treat people with severe acne.
Typically, in order to achieve the best chance of long term acne
remission, doctors are advised to prescribe patients relatively
high doses of Accutane. Researchers have published two
studies in the past two years attempting to gauge whether people
with mild to moderate acne can achieve similar long term
remission of acne with lower dosages of Accutane, and thus
achieve similar success with lower side effects.
Study 1: Italian researchers looked at 150 people with “mild to moderate acne,” although most of them (114) were considered “moderate.” The average person only received around 3/4 of the amount of Accutane that is normally prescribed. After two years, only 13 people had relapsed, which comes to 9.35%, a very good relapse rate, even when compared with high doses of Accutane across the general population. Note: After their Accutane course, the people in this study were then put on 1 full year of topical adapalene therapy which somewhat confuses the results of the study.
Study 2: In this study, Korean researchers studied 60 people with “moderate” acne. These people were given either conventional treatment, low-dose treatment, or intermittent treatment (1 week out of each month). Although the amount of people studied was small, and thus we need to take these results less seriously than larger studies, outcomes were similar between people taking conventional and low-dose treatment. One year after therapy was discontinued, 2 out of 16 people in the conventional group and 3 out of 17 people in the low-dose group relapsed. Note: People on intermittent therapy did not fair nearly as well. More than half of these patients relapsed.
What I take from this: As usual, more research is needed on this topic. However, from what these researchers are seeing, as long as someone is not suffering with severe acne, they may be able to get away with less Accutane, and thus suffer lower incidence of side effects. I’ll keep you posted as more research on this topic comes to light. As always, please keep discussing your own personal experiences with Accutane on the messageboards so we can follow along with your particular dosage and results.
You guys have been asking, so here’s
what I found to be the most interesting new information on scars
and scar treatments:
(1) Inflammation: Upon closer investigation through biopsy specimens, researchers found that the initial inflammatory reaction was stronger and had a longer duration in patients who scarred.
(2) Granulation tissue formation: Next, damaged tissues are repaired, new capillaries are formed, and new collagen begins forming. Researchers are noting, “The balance of collagen types shifts in mature scars to be similar to that of ounwounded skin, with approximately 80% of type I collagen.” This one is a bit above my head. If anyone knows why this might be interesting, please comment.
(3) Matrix remodeling: As the healing process moves on, extracellular matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) take on the job of deciding how much tissue will be built. Too much MMPs and you may see a raised scar. Too little and you may see a depressed scar. However, why some people have too much or too little MMPs remains a mystery.
…we still have no clue.
After scouring the research from the last several years regarding sebum (skin oil), acne bacteria, gene transcription, and a bunch of other super techie stuff, the answer to what causes acne is…um…we still have absolutely no idea. Most diseases are tricky things, and acne is no exception. Scientists are really only still scratching the surface when it comes to nailing down what actually happens that starts the acne ball rolling.
Let’s take acne bacteria for instance. Over the past few years, scientists have located more strains of P. Acnes, the bacteria present in human skin. We don’t know which strains might be harmful and which might actually be helpful. Furthermore, we don’t know which of the secretions of which of the bacteria strains cause problems and why. Additionally, we don’t know if it’s the secretions that cause a problem or if certain strains of bacteria interact with cells in some other way, such as interacting with cell RNA, toll-like receptors, or inflammation. And, um…if these bacteria do interact with skin cells in some way, we don’t know whether it’s dermal cells, oil cells, or immune/inflammatory cells.
The story is equally muddled when you look at the immune response of the skin, the inflammatory cascade, cell signaling, et cetera, et cetera.
Regardless, it’s not all bad news. Some directions of inquiry are starting to look more interesting than others. For instance, scientists are starting to frame acne as an inflammatory disease and are focusing in on how to mediate the body’s inflammatory response in the skin.
With time, we may be able to better specify what causes acne, which could theoretically lead to a cure. Rest assured that I’ll keep on top of the latest research. In the meantime, The Regimen should work well to keep acne under complete control, and in more severe cases, Accutane is an option as well.
The more I learn about
antibiotic therapy for acne, the more wary and less enthused I
become. Due to overuse and misuse over the past twenty years,
antibiotic resistance has become widespread throughout the skin
of the world population. This is evidenced by the increasing
ineffectiveness of both oral and topical antibiotics in clinical
studies. Antibiotics never worked very well for acne, and now
they work even less well.
According to a “Global Alliance to Improve Outcomes in Acne” published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, antibiotics should be avoided as the sole treatment of acne. Researchers agree strongly that if antibiotic therapy is used, it should be combined with other therapies. When you look at the superior effectiveness of these other therapies the question arises as to why someone would want to include antibiotics at all. For example, when one takes into consideration the fact that benzoyl peroxide kills 99.9% of acne bacteria on its own and does not create resistant colonies of bacteria, one has to wonder why so many prescriptions for antibiotic acne therapy–over 11 million per year–are still written. According to an article published in the journal Expert Opinion on Pharmacotherapy, “…evidence demonstrates that [topical antibiotics] are no more effective against inflamed lesions than [benzoyl peroxide], and are less effective against non-inflamed lesions…To date, [benzoyl peroxide], as both mono- and combination therapy, is the most evidence-based approach.” Other acne treatments exist, and while they may not be as effective as benzoyl peroxide, they easily outpace antibiotics.
The misuse of antibiotics can also cause antibiotic resistance in other skin bacteria, especially the bacteria known to lead to impetigo and folliculitis. If all of this weren’t enough, when we look at how gene mutations work in bacteria, we see that genes which allow for resistance to antibiotics are easily transferred from acne bacteria to other bacteria in the skin, thus further promoting unwanted antibiotic resistance in other skin bacteria.
If your doctor has you on
antibiotic therapy for acne and nothing else, it may be time to
have a talk with her/him. The authors of the expert opinion
review also note that topical antibiotics should be used for no
longer than 3 months and oral antibiotics for no longer than 6
months. So, if you have been on antibiotic therapy for a long
time, it may also be time for an appointment with your
dermatologist. Since poor compliance with antibiotic regimens are
one of the main causes of antibiotic resistance, just make sure
you do not stop antibiotic therapy on your own without consulting
with your physician first.
In case you just can’t wait to get back to your computer to see what’s aflutter on the messageboards, you’re in luck. Now you can check out the messageboards using your mobile device. Just type in acne.org/messageboard into your mobile browser and surf away.
Hey Everybody. Just a heads up to
keep you all in the loop…we have been working on an upgrade to
the messageboards for a few months now. It’s a
huge job but we’re almost done. The new
messageboard is now online and should be accessible for you, but
keep in mind that it doesn’t have the look or feel that it
ultimately will. We will be working on sprucing everything
up this week. The new boards will have better navigation,
search, members area…pretty much everything. Plus it should
be more integrated with social media and help everybody on here
get to know each other better with upgraded tools.
Thanks for your patience, and please give me your feedback.
I know you will

What it is: On June 21, 2011 the FDA
approved a process by which a dermatologist or plastic surgeon
numbs behind the ear, removes small pieces of skin, and sends
these pieces of skin to a lab where the fibroblast cells in the
skin samples are multiplied many times over and then frozen.
These cells are then thawed when needed and injected into the
skin under wrinkles or scars (boxcar or rolling) to help even out the
appearance of the skin.
PROS: The body views these cultured cells as “own” and so the immune system does not respond. Working with your own cells eliminates allergic reactions, lumps, or abscesses which may come with other fillers. But probably the most compelling advantage is how long results last. Other fillers like bovine or synthetic collagen may last only a few months, and even more advanced fillers which combine polymer beads with collagen may only last a year or so. The LaViv treatment promises to last for years. As with many fillers, recovery is extremely minor and is evidenced by minor redness or bruising at the injection site. You can immediately return to work.
CONS: People don’t see results right away. The process requires 3 staggered injections and results aren’t seen until up to 3 months. It also costs a pretty penny–anywhere from $2000-$4000. However, other fillers which last less than a year can cost about $1000, so when you look at the long term, using your own cells may be more cost effective.
BOTTOM LINE: As always, the proof is in the pudding, and the pudding in this case is still cooking. This is such a new product and process that we literally haven’t had enough time to begin seeing “real” before and afters from everyday people posting online. There are 2 before and after pictures at this link which are provided by the company. Keep in mind as well that fillers are very often best used alongside other treatments, such as laser resurfacing.
A while back we switched to new pumps–pictured below on the right. You guys let me know they were kinda annoying and I agreed, so I switched back to the old pumps–pictured below on the left. From now on, if you order any Acne.org product with a pump, you will get the old, good pumps.
The last few days I have spent going through all clinical studies/trials regarding acne and Omega-3 fats, iodine, antioxidants, chocolate, calorie intake, fatty/oily food, digestion, and zinc. Adding to this what I have learned regarding dairy and glycemic load, I’m sorry to say that nothing stands out for me as a smoking gun when it comes to diet and acne. We simply don’t have enough research yet, and nothing feels super compelling to me at this point. However, at least researchers are looking into how diet may affect acne, so hopefully by the next time I review the literature, the evidence available to the scientific community will start taking shape. In the meantime, based on digesting everything the research community has to offer regarding diet and acne, here is what I am personally going to do as far as diet goes:
1. Keep taking fish oil and eating wild delicious
sushi
I take 4 fish oil pills per day
to make up for my Western-style diet, which like almost everyone
living in modern society, is overly rich in Omega-6 fats from
vegetable oils, grains, etc. There is enough evidence to persuade
me of the overall health benefits of Omega-3s and I feel good
taking fish oil regardless of whether or not it may be helping
with my skin. Also, when I go out to eat, I specifically ask
whether the fish or sushi on the menu is wild. Farm raised
seafood is far inferior in Omega-3s and other nutrition than wild
seafood.
2. Keep taking a zinc supplement. Having dived deeper into the role of zinc, I am still convinced that it is likely an important nutrient when it comes to combating inflammation and keeping bacteria in check. I’ll keep taking my 30mg per day.
3. Not worry about iodine, chocolate, fatty/oily food. I’ll keep eating seaweed salad and seafood (contain iodine). There exists no evidence showing that the amounts of iodine consumed in these foods is in any way detrimental for acne. Based on the available evidence, I’ll also continue eating a little dark chocolate every day without worrying about how my skin will react. I will also keep eating the occasional naughty greasy meal without fear.
4. Try to be generally healthy. Antioxidants are important calming agents in the body, and eating antioxidant-rich colorful fruits and vegetables is fun and tasty anyway. When it comes to glycemic load, whether or not scientists know if it will help with acne yet, I’ll try to keep my meals balanced with carbs, fat, and protein to keep my energy and mood level and avoid crashes.
A full update to the diet and acne page of acne.org is on its way with much more information on each of the above mentioned topics. In the meantime, when you look at the evidence at hand, eating healthy and in moderation will suffice as a general wrap up for what we know regarding diet and acne at this point. Not exactly a Eureka moment.